Have you have heard of Kathmandu. What’s the first thing you think of when you hear of Kathmandu? Is it the famous Bob Seger song? When I was working in Japan, Madeline and I had the opportunity to visit Nepal. It is a small country steeped in history. Did you know that Nepal is the birthplace of Buddha? It’s also famous for its Himalayan mountain ranges, including Mount Everest, the highest peak in the world. In this post, I have quite a few things to see in Nepal along with a place to stay and a restaurant. Most of the post is about where to go. If you want to know more about Nepal, you can read our post about Nepal Fun Facts here.
Gokarneshwor Mahadev Temple
The temple itself is “guarded” by a large representation of Lord Shiva above the gate before the actual temple. We never entered the temple. You should take a picture though of the temple and Lord Shiva. This can be found within the Kathmandu Durbar Square area. Be careful since there are multiple Durbar squares, and this is the one in Kathmandu. We hired a guide and driver to get here. The guide knows so much more than your typical guidebook and will answer your questions. We used Pradip Lama as our guide, and he was terrific. You can email him at pradiplama@hotmail.com
Kumari Chowk
Kumari Ghar, built in 1757 in Kathmandu, Nepal
Kumari Chowk is the location of a Nepalese living goddess. The chouk is really the courtyard and Kumari is the name chosen for the Nepalese goddess. This is a very reverent and holy place and is the living quarters for Kumari, the living goddess in Nepal. She is regarded as the embodiment of the supreme female deity Vajradevi, a Buddha. To Hindus, she represents the goddess Taleju, a version of Durga. Our guide told us that there were 10 Kumaris in Nepal, nine of them in the Kathmandu Valley. Each is chosen as a very young girl and there is a strict initiation/probation period where they are tested in various manners to determine if the young girl can become the Kumari. Once chosen, she lives at home but travels frequently. You’re not allowed to take a photograph of her without permission.
The Kumari Ghar built in 1757 houses the Kumari
We did not see her, but we saw pictures of her from our guide. Kumari stays an active goddess until her first menstruation. It is believed that the God spirit vacates her body during this time. Another Kumari is chosen to replace her. This can be found within the Kathmandu Durbar Square area. Be careful since there are multiple Durbar squares, and this is the one in Kathmandu. We hired a guide and driver to get here. The guide knows so much more than your typical guidebook and will answer your questions. We used Pradip Lama as our guide, and he was wonderful. You can email him at pradiplama@hotmail.com
Indra Chowk
A chouk in this case is more of a marketplace. This is a market defined by narrow streets and open marketplaces where you can purchase all sorts of Nepalese items including healing bowls, pashmina, pottery and handicrafts, traditional Nepalese daggers, etc. It is associated with Kathmandu Durbar Square. Be careful since there are multiple Durbar squares, and this is the one in Kathmandu. We hired a guide and driver to get here. The guide knows so much more than your typical guidebook and will answer your questions. We used Pradip Lama as our guide, and he was great. You can email him at pradiplama@hotmail.com
Healing Bowls at Buddhist Thangka Art School Kathmandu Nepal
Our guide took us to the Buddhist Thangka Art School where a lot of Nepal art was created. They also had a large collection of “singing” bowls. The bowls are a type of bell that produces a soothing sound when played. They are typically made of a combination of metals, including copper, tin, zinc, iron, silver, and gold. The exact composition of the metals can vary, and each bowl is unique in terms of size, shape, and sound. The bowls are used for meditation, relaxation, and healing practices. The soothing and resonating sound they produce is believed to have therapeutic effects on the mind and body, promoting a sense of calmness and well-being. Many people use singing bowls as part of their meditation or yoga practice to enhance mindfulness and reduce stress.
We purchased a healing bowl after having a very nice presentation and demonstration. There was no pressure to purchase anything but it’s now a great souvenir of our time there.
The Tribhuvan Mahendra, and Birendra Museums
The Tribhuvan Mahendra and Birendra Museums are part of the larger Hanuman Dhoka Palace. Both of these museums were closed to the public when we visited in May and June 2017. You can see the outside of the museums and there was a gift shop that was open. Both museums are part of the larger Hanuman Dhoka Palace complex which is reviewed separately. Be careful since there are multiple Durbar squares, and this is the one in Kathmandu. We hired a guide and driver to get here. The guide knows so much more than your typical guidebook and will answer your questions. We used Pradip Lama as our guide, and he was excellent. You can email him at pradiplama@hotmail.com
Kala Bairav
Statue And Shrine Of Kal Bhairav At Kathmandu Durbar Square, Kathmandu Valley, Nepal
Beware of the “fearful” sculpture! Bhairava is a Hindu deity which translates loosely to “fearful.” The sculpture of the god is undamaged by the earthquake. There were plenty of people taking pictures next to the sculpture of Kala Bairav. We are not Hindu, so we didn’t know all the symbolism, but he certainly looked fearful as a guard. The sculpture can be found within Kathmandu Durbar Square. Be careful since there are multiple Durbar squares, and this is the one in Kathmandu. We hired a guide and driver to get here. The guide knows so much more than your typical guidebook and will answer your questions. We used Pradip Lama as our guide, and he was terrific. You can email him at pradiplama@hotmail.com
Hanuman Dhoka
ook for the monkey God when you come. Hanuman Dhoka is a series of buildings which was the Royal Palace of the Malla kings in the Durbar Square of central Kathmandu, Nepal. Be careful since there are multiple Durbar squares, and this is the one in Kathmandu. The entrance to the Dhoka is “guarded” by the stone image of Hanuman, the Hindu monkey god. “Dhoka” means gate or door in Nepalese. You can easily walk around and between the buildings and look at the architecture, wood carvings, etc. There is a modest admission fee to visit the square and it’s primarily to pay for the restoration efforts. Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world. There was significant earthquake damage here from the two major earthquakes in 2015 and 1934. In 1934, the earthquake killed more than 10,000 people and caused countless damage to structures that were thousands of years old. In 2015, nearly 9,000 people died, and the financial impact was more than $10 billion USD so a modest entrance fee to structures that could be thousands of years old is a small price to pay to restore the structure and help the local economy. We hired a guide and driver to get here. The guide knows so much more than your typical guidebook and will answer your questions. We used Pradip Lama as our guide. You can email him at pradiplama@hotmail.com
There is damage to this temple, but you are surrounded by buildings that are thousands of years old, so a little earthquake damage is understandable. Soak up the history.
Buddha Air
Buddha Air Nepal
What an experience is in store for you if you do this when in Kathmandu. This is the consummate way to see 8 of the 10 tallest peaks in the world.
There are several air carriers that offer this service. Essentially it is about an hour flight past 8 of the 10 tallest peaks and a return flight seeing the same peaks for passengers on the other side of the aircraft. It’s a relatively small airplane with 16 rows but all passengers get a window seat. In our case, we also were invited individually in the cockpit, so we got a cockpit view from above the clouds. The cost was $180 USD per person, but it was worth it. We were not in the condition to actually scale any of the mountains ourselves, even with brave Tibetan or Nepalese guides. This was a much safer way to go. Our airline was Buddha Air, and we would highly recommend it. They have early morning flights starting at 6:30AM so you need to get your tickets purchased early before and arrange a car to take you.
Rox Restaurant
This restaurant is within the Hyatt Regency hotel, a refuge within Kathmandu. The restaurant has very good Italian food. They also have some great choices in the bar. There is a distinct difference between the bar and restaurant. Geographically, the bar is below the restaurant and has 2 levels. The bar offers some tasty snacks and menu items that you can make a meal out of. The bar has a patio on the lower level which offers views of the expansive garden area. You can smell the gardenias from the terrace. The restaurant is only recently changed over to an Italian menu when we visited. They have a pizza oven and offer a wide selection of Neapolitan pizzas along with many pasta and secondi dishes. The chef has a lot of skill, and we heard the various sous chefs being instructed in the open kitchen plan. It feels a little odd for an Italian meal in Nepal, but the food is universal, and you’ll like whatever you choose. The restaurant presentation starts with home cooked bread with 3 styles of bread in a single serving. They serve it individually, so each diner gets 3 versions of bread in a single serving. Everything is good in this restaurant, and we have visited it multiple times.
Degu Taleju Temple
This is another historic site in the Kathmandu Durbar square. There are many Durbar Squares in Nepal so make sure you find the correct location. There is a modest admission fee to visit the square and it’s primarily to pay for the restoration efforts. Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world. There was significant earthquake damage here from the two major earthquakes in 2015 and 1934. In 1934, the earthquake killed more than 10,000 people and caused countless damage to structures that were thousands of years old. In 2015, nearly 9,000 people died, and the financial impact was more than $10 billion USD so a modest entrance fee to structures that could be thousands of years old is a small price to pay to restore the structure and help the local economy. We hired a guide and driver to get here. The guide knows so much more than your typical guidebook and will answer your questions. We used Pradip Lama (Pradiplama@hotmail.com) as our guide and he was terrific. There is damage to this temple, but you are surrounded by buildings that are thousands of years old, so a little earthquake damage is understandable. We enjoyed this site – it allowed us to embrace history.
Jaganath (Krishna) Temple
There are many Durbar Squares in Nepal so make sure you find the correct location. Jagnatha Krishna Temple is in the Kathmandu Durbar Square – not another Durbar Square. The temple is noted for the multi-tiered roof structure with Jagnatha Krishna inside the temple. Jagnatha has a meaning of "Lord of the Universe” and is worshiped by both Buddhists and Hindus. The representation of the god is a black body with no hands or feet. The temple was harmed by the recent earthquake in Kathmandu, but it is still impressive to visit. There is a modest admission fee to visit the square and it’s primarily to pay for the restoration efforts. Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world. There was significant earthquake damage here from the two major earthquakes in 2015 and 1934. In 1934, the earthquake killed more than 10,000 people and caused countless damage to structures that were thousands of years old. In 2015, nearly 9,000 people died, and the financial impact was more than $10 billion USD so a modest entrance fee to structures that could be thousands of years old is a small price to pay to restore the structure and help the local economy. We hired a guide and driver to get here. The guide knows so much more than your typical guidebook and will answer your questions. We used Pradip Lama as our guide who was excellent. You can email him at pradiplama@hotmail.com
Basantapur Tower
Basantapur Tower is a UNESCO world heritage site. You can’t miss it in the Kathmandu Durbar Square. Be aware that there are several Durbar Squares in Nepal. This tower was badly damaged in the recent earthquake. There is a modest admission fee to visit the square and it’s primarily to pay for the restoration efforts. Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world. There was significant earthquake damage here from the two major earthquakes in 2015 and 1934. In 1934, the earthquake killed more than 10,000 people and caused countless damage to structures that were thousands of years old. In 2015, nearly 9,000 people died, and the financial impact was more than $10 billion USD so a modest entrance fee to structures that could be thousands of years old is a small price to pay to restore the structure and help the local economy. We hired a guide and driver to get here. The guide knows so much more than your typical guidebook and will answer your questions. We used Pradip Lama as our guide, and he was superb. You can email him at pradiplama@hotmail.com
Nyatapola Temple
This is the place to visit in Taumadhi Square. We visited this square as part of a larger visit to Bhaktapur. We hired a guide and driver to get here. The guide knows so much more than your typical guidebook and will answer your questions. We used Pradip Lama as our guide. You can email him at pradiplama@hotmail.com
The temple is the centerpiece of the square and the intrepid can climb the tiny stairs to get a great view of the area.
Taumadhi Square
Taumadhi Square is one of several squares in Bhaktapur. We visited this square as part of a larger visit to Bhaktapur. We hired a guide and driver to get here. The guide knows so much more than your typical guidebook and will answer your questions. We used Pradip Lama as our guide, and he was terrific. You can email him at pradiplama@hotmail.com
Hand Made Paper and Tea Centre Nepal
There are many shops to go to in this square. We enjoyed a handmade paper and tea store. We met the shopkeeper who was terrific. If you are unsure of the specific location, you can email her at hm_paper@yahoo.com
Her store had many interesting gifts and souvenirs. At the center of the square is Nyatapola temple which you can climb to get the best view. There are plenty of restaurants also in the area for a snack or a meal.
The Crematoria
Crematorium Kathmandu along river
This location is a daily reminder of the fragility of life. Our guide took us through this area while visiting other temples. It’s quite a sobering experience for a Westerner. We used Pradip Lama as our guide, and he was terrific. You can email him at pradiplama@hotmail.com
Pradip provided background commentary and explained the various rituals going on. There were places for common people and people of higher status. He said that there were many forms of caring for the dead in Nepalese culture. This was the most common and they had an electric version which Westerners would be familiar with. However, this was an outdoor version for all to see. We embraced the Nepalese culture and learned about the practices and watched some of the ceremonies ongoing. It will leave you feeling sad in many ways because the mourners and family are grief stricken. However, the careful and respectful ceremony to return the dead to ash was a somber affair.
Pottery Square
Pottery Square Bhatpakur Nepal
This is an area within the Bhaktapur Durbar Square which still practices pottery using the old and new methods. Depending on the day, you’ll see people making pottery and putting it in the sun to dry and sell. We didn’t expect to see this in Durbar Square, so it was a pleasant surprise. The pottery is quite inexpensive if you want some genuine Nepalese pottery. We probably wouldn’t have found this area without a guide. The guide knows so much more than your typical guidebook and will answer your questions. We used Pradip Lama as our guide, and he was terrific. You can email him at pradiplama@hotmail.com
Durbar (Central) Square
Kama Sutra Depictions on Pillars
Durbar Central Square is probably best known as the location where the Kama Sutra stuff is. We hired a guide and driver to get here. The guide knows so much more than your typical guidebook and will answer your questions. We used Pradip Lama as our guide, and I recommend him. You can email him at pradiplama@hotmail.com
While you visit this area, you’ll notice that on several of the buildings, you’ll note carved figures in the wooden support beams. The guide was shy about the topic but said it wasn’t what most Western people thought. It was thought that the depiction of the Kama Sutra figures would protect the building from natural disasters like fire, flood, earthquake, etc. These buildings were still standing so maybe there was something to it. He also said that the pictures of Kama Sutra through the erotic carvings was an important way to entertain the kings and queens of the time.
Kathmandu Durbar Square
This square is a UNESCO world heritage site with plenty to discover. We hired a car and a driver which I would strongly recommend. Driving in Nepal is similar to driving in India – it’s simply not recommended. There are virtually no rules that are followed and there are no stoplights or stop signs. Traffic is simply a nightmare, and the driver avoids the potholes and the occasional cow crossing the road. We also recommend a guide. I’ve read some reviewers saying it was a waste of money, but we hired a car and driver for $80USD for a half day tour. The guide knows so much more than your typical guidebook and will answer your questions. We used Pradip Lama as our guide. You can email him at pradiplama@hotmail.com
I’ve also seen reviews that say that the cost of $10USD is too steep for this site and I would disagree. Your money is being used to restore the site. Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world. There was significant earthquake damage here from the two major earthquakes in 2015 and 1934. In 1934, the earthquake killed more than 10,000 people and caused countless damage to structures that were thousands of years old. In 2015, nearly 9,000 people died, and the financial impact was more than $10 billion USD. So, $10 USD is not a significant sum for a charitable donation to see a location that is thousands of years old. There is another Durbar Square in Bhaktapur which is about 30 minutes outside of the city that I’d highly recommend. Both Durbar squares offer a sense of history in this 12,000-year-old country.
Boudhanath Stupa
Stupa in front of colorful buildings at the Boudhanath stupa in Kathmandu, Nepal
This is a UNESCO world heritage site and one of the largest Buddhist Stupas in the world. Perhaps one of your first questions is “what the heck is a stupa”? A stupa is a Buddhist commemorative monument which traditionally housed sacred relics associated with the Buddha or other saintly persons. The circular domed shape of the stupa appears to have derived from pre-Buddhist burial mounds in India.
The Boudhanath Stupa was built during the 5th century AD, Today, the Stupa is the most popular site for Buddhists in Nepal. We saw people come to the Stupa chanting mantras. It is beautiful when the light hits it in the morning and evening. There are shops that surround the circular Stupa. We walked around the Stupa in a clockwise direction and were told to spin the prayer wheels clockwise. There is a small entry fee to enter the Stupa area. Visually the Stupa is quite large, and we could easily see it from the Hyatt Regency hotel. We thought it was odd that the top looked like eyes and a nose. In fact, the eyes are on all 4 sides of the top of the Stupa. These are also known as Buddha eyes and wisdom eyes. The eyes of the Buddha in the Stupa symbolize the all-seeing ability of the Buddha. Below the two eyes are a nose in the loose form of a question mark. This is the Nepalese character for the number 1, which symbolizes unity of all the things as well as the one way to reach enlightenment which is through the Buddha's teachings. Above the nose is a third eye, which symbolizes the all-seeing wisdom of the Buddha. We hired a guide and driver to get here because we wanted to visit this Stupa and several other locations. The guide knows so much more than your typical guidebook and will answer your questions. We used Pradip Lama as our guide, and he was terrific. You can email him at pradiplama@hotmail.com
Pashupatinath Temple
Pashupatinath is not the frequently mentioned Monkey temple. Pashupatinath Temple is one of the most sacred Hindu temples of Nepal. Pashupatinath Temple is located on both banks of Bagmati River on the east side of Kathmandu. Pashupatinath is a prominent temple dedicated to god Shiva. It is the site of hospice care for the elderly where it is believed that the spirituality of the location can improve health to the point that they can return to their homes. It is also the site for the crematoria where the dead are properly tended to guide them to the afterlife. The main temple of Pashupatinath is a building with a roof with a golden spire. As you walk around the complex, you’ll head toward the Bagmati river where you’ll encounter the crematoria and the hospice areas. Some locals call this a “monkey temple” and we found they are plentiful. However, this is a much more sacred site and reverence is the key word. We also recommend a guide. I’ve read some reviewers saying it was a waste of money, but we hired a car and driver for $80USD for a half day tour. The guide knows so much more than your typical guidebook and will answer your questions. They have to go through training. We used Pradip Lama as our guide, and you can email him at pradiplama@hotmail.com
Hyatt Regency Kathmandu
Hyatt Regency Kathmandu exterior
This hotel is surrounded by 37 acres of tranquility amidst the busy city of Kathmandu. When you move about Nepal or in Kathmandu particularly – you are struck by the vibrant city life. There is dust and dirt travelling everywhere since most of the roads are just on dirt. This hotel is in the Kathmandu valley and is within walking distance of the Boudhanath Stupa. If you’ve visited Kathmandu, you’d find the streets are always busy with cars and motorcycles on largely dirt roads. The hotel is beautiful both from the outside and inside. If you walk along many of the garden paths, you can smell the gardenias fragrance. The property has several restaurants and bars. They also have a casino on property which we never entered. It’s truly a refuge from the busy and hectic city life. You can easily walk to the Boudnanath Stupa from the property. There is a path which takes you to a rear entrance and a guard will check your room key both entering and returning from your trip to the Stupa. The lobby is quite large with many places for comfortable seating. In the evening, they have a trio of Nepalese musicians playing music which is quite entertaining. The pool is nice and large. There are only so many umbrellas, so you might want to get your seat early and settle in for the time you want to be near the pool. You can order lunch or an early dinner at the pool. We opted for the Regency Club for this stay and enjoyed the more intimate environment. We found that you could order room service delivered to the club lounge, which allowed you to enjoy the ambiance and views and still have a meal. The Café restaurant has a buffet breakfast and offers a buffet for both lunch and dinner. However, they also have a la carte options for lunch and dinner. The menu choices are quite broad and include Western, Asian and Indian foods. The Rox restaurant is an Italian theme which just began in June. We ate there several times and had a good meal. Wi-Fi is available throughout the hotel. We had poor reception in our room, but the hotel provided a local router for our room which made it much better. This is a splendid hotel that you can really relax in. The people really make the difference. Everyone asked if there was anything they could do to improve our stay. They were extremely friendly and professional. We want to come back.
Taragaon Museum
This museum allows you to stroll through the past of Kathmandu visually. Kathmandu was not opened up for foreigners until 1951. The Taragaon museum is accessible via the Hyatt Regency and also from the street. We found it because we were staying at the Hyatt Regency Kathmandu. The museum has many rooms with photographs, sketches, etchings and other documents from the period from 1951 through the 60's and 70's predominately. It shows how untouched Kathmandu was. In 1951, there were no roads that could support a car - only foot traffic known to locals. The photographs are visually stunning. If you stay at the Hyatt Regency Kathmandu, you'll see many photographs on the walls showing Nepalese life during this period. There also is a small cafe available to tourists for drinks and snacks. There are also a few artifacts from the 1800's on display. This museum opened in 2014 and is a rare treat from the past.
The Café
Hyatt Regency Kathmandu-The-Cafe. Nepal
The café offers great service and food choices, and it is not just for breakfast either. We stayed at the Hyatt Regency hotel in Kathmandu, and we had breakfast there every day and room service for lunch or dinner on several occasions. The breakfast buffet is massive with choices of North Indian, Southern Indian, Asian and Western foods. I tried as many things as possible because there were Nepalese dishes as well and the complexity and tastes were superb. We had the opportunity to meet the Food and Beverage manager and Event Sales Executive while we were there. The F&B manager even offered us choices that were not on the menu or the buffet table - just to try new Nepalese dishes. The restaurant is very crowded on the weekend and large families come to enjoy the diverse dishes. Service is excellent. After the 2nd day, the beverage person, Ashish, remembered our usual morning beverages without prompting. At the egg station, I simply had to request my choice and the chef and server nodded and asked only where I was sitting. The dish came to the table within a few minutes. Service and food quality are excellent at this restaurant. We also just ordered off the a la carte menu for lunch and dinner and the food quality was just as good. I ordered a hamburger since I'd stuck with Nepal or Indian food for quite a few meals. It was very good, and the chef told me that it was difficult to get high grade meat, but he made the hamburger with high quality cuts that was very good - much better than your standard USA hamburger. The hotel is excellent in general, but this restaurant clearly stands out and is worth a visit even if you don't stay at the hotel.
Hopefully you’ll see plenty of things to see and do in Nepal. We learned so much and hopefully with the above details, you’ll find things to explore and enrich your own life. Get out there and Go Go!